Cars BMW Cars Volkswagen Cars Chevrolet Cars Land Rover Cars Lada Cars Honda Cars Peugeot
English Русский
Български
Беларускі
Український
Српски
Hrvatski
Română
Polski
Slovenský
Magyar
Bookmark News and articles Sitemap Feedback Site search
MercedesMan.ru
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
A-Class C-Class E-Class G-Class M-Class S-Class Others
W123 (1976-1985) W124 (1984-1995) W210 (1996-2002)
  • Main
  • E-Class
  • W123 (1976-1985)
  • Power unit
  • Repair M110 and M123 engines
  • Removal the cylinder head

Removal the cylinder head (Mercedes-Benz E-Class W123)

0
Contents: Removal the cylinder head ↡ Engine M123 ↡ Engine M110 ↡

Removal the cylinder head



If the engine has not yet been removed from the vehicle, first perform the following operations:

1. Disconnect the ground wire from the battery.

2. Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds.

3. Remove the air conditioning compressor, where applicable.

4. Remove the ignition distributor, high tension wires and spark plugs.

5. Remove the rear suspension automatic level control hydraulic pump, where applicable.

6. Disconnect all wires and hoses and drain the cooling system.

7. Remove the oil level indicator dipstick tube, where present.

Engine M123



Removing the camshaft gear

Removing the camshaft gear


Tightening sequence of cylinder head bolts on M 123 engine

Tightening sequence of cylinder head bolts on M 123 engine




The arrows indicate the small cylinder head bolts in the timing chain opening (engine M 123)

The arrows indicate the small cylinder head bolts in the timing chain opening (engine M 123)


1. Loosen the nuts and remove the valve cover.

2. Loosen the clamps and remove the bypass hose between the water pump and the thermostat housing. Remove the thermostat housing.

3. On vehicles with automatic transmission, remove the strut between the right engine mount and the cylinder head.

4. Turn the crankshaft pulley bolt until both valves in cylinder 1 are closed and the TDC mark on the vibration damper is aligned with the ignition timing arrow.

5. Make marks of the relative positions of the chain and camshaft sprocket.

6. Unscrew the chain tensioner plug and remove the spring. Then unscrew the nuts and remove the tensioner body together with the plunger.

7. Loosen the camshaft sprocket bolt, locking the sprockets using a metal rod inserted into one of the holes.

8. Move the sprocket aside, remove it from the chain and tie it to one side. Note that the marks on the sprocket are on its outer face.

9. Loosen the bolts and remove the ventilation tube running from the water pump to the cylinder head.

10. Remove the cylinder head bolts in the reverse order to that shown in the illustration using an Allen key. Don't forget the two bolts in the camshaft tunnel. Note that the longer bolts are on the camshaft supports.



11. Have an assistant lift the chain and hold the chain guide inside while you remove the cylinder head from the block. If it is stubborn, tap it with a wooden mallet. Do not insert a lever into the gasket slot to avoid damaging the mating surfaces. Place the cylinder head on wooden blocks to avoid damaging the valves.

12. Remove the cylinder head gasket from the block.

Engine M110



Removing the valve tappet (engine M 110)

Removing the valve tappet (engine M 110)


TDC marks on the camshaft gear and its housing (engine M 110)

TDC marks on the camshaft gear and its housing (engine M 110)


Removing the side guide studs (engine M 110)

Removing the side guide studs (engine M 110)




Tightening sequence of cylinder head bolts on M 110 engine

Tightening sequence of cylinder head bolts on M 110 engine


1. Remove the vacuum pump (where provided by design).

2. Using Allen keys, loosen the bolts and remove the front camshaft covers.

3. Loosen the oil return pipe bolts.

4. Loosen the clamps and remove the bypass hose from the water pump to the thermostat housing. Remove the housing.

5. Unscrew the nuts and remove the valve cover.

6. Separate the springs from the cam followers using a screwdriver.

7. Rotate the crankshaft pulley bolt until the tops of the cam lobes in cylinder 1 are at the top position, then lower the valve levers to remove the cam followers. Mark the positions of the followers. Repeat this operation on the remaining valves.

8. Rotate the crankshaft pulley bolt until the cam lobe peaks in cylinder 1 are at the top position and the TDC mark on the vibration damper is aligned with the valve timing indicator. Make sure that the marks on the camshaft sprocket are aligned with the marks on its housing.

9. Unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolts, blocking the sprockets with a metal rod passed through one of the holes.

10. Remove the radiator. This operation is desirable, as it will free up space for work.



11. Using a hexagonal socket wrench, unscrew the chain tensioner plug and loosen the inner plug approximately two turns. Unscrew the outer ring and remove the tensioner. If it sticks, unscrew the inner plug and screw in the bolt to remove the unit.

12. Use a hammer to knock out the pins and remove the upper guide rod from the camshaft housing.

13. Move the camshafts all the way back, remove the spacers and chain from the sprockets and tie the chain to one side.

14. Unscrew the cover plug, take out the support pin and remove the chain guide sprocket.

15. Use a hammer to knock out the pins and remove the side guide rod from the cylinder head.

16. Loosen the cylinder head mounting bolts in the reverse order to that shown in the figure, using an Allen key. Don't forget the two bolts in the chain opening.

17. Have an assistant lift the chain and hold the right chain guide inside, then remove the cylinder head from the block. If it is sticking, tap it with a wooden mallet to loosen it. Do not insert levers into the gasket slot to avoid damaging the mating surfaces. Place the cylinder head on wooden blocks to avoid damaging the valves.

18. Remove the cylinder head gasket from the block.
This article is available at: russian, bulgarian, belarusian, ukrainian, serbian, croatian, romanian, polish, slovak, hungarian
The article has been verified: Levin Kirill Glebovich
Share with friends:
◀ Previous
E-Class W123 / Repair M110 and M123 engines
Next ▶

Removal engines M110 and M123
Checking and adjusting clearances in the valve drive mechanism on M123 and M110 engines
Removal the camshaft
Disassembling the cylinder head
Replacing the camshaft chain
Removal the intermediate sprocket and shaft
Removal the flywheel (drive disk)
More similar articles for repairing other models

☛ Cylinder head — removal and installation Mercedes W168 (1997-2004)
☛ Cylinder Head Cover (4-cylinder engine) Mercedes W202 (1993-2000)
☛ Removal and installation the slave cylinder of the interaxle… Mercedes W463 (1999-2019)
☛ Removal and installation the cylinder head Mercedes W163 (1997-2005)
☛ Cylinder Head Cover — Installation Details Mercedes W140 (1991-1998)
☛ Cylinder head — general description Mercedes Sprinter (1995-2000, diesel)
Link in different formats to this article
Comments and feedback from visitors
No comments yet


How much will 17 + 29 ?

       





W210 (1996-2002) 
  • General information
  • Vehicle description
  • Working conditions and tools
  • Car care
  • Diesel engines
  • Engine repair
  • Lubrication system
  • Cooling system
  • Injection system
  • Supply system
  • Exhaust system
  • Gasoline engines
  • Engine repair
  • Lubrication system
  • Cooling system
  • Control system
  • Power and exhaust system
  • Transmission
  • Clutch
  • Mechanical gearbox
  • Automatic gearbox
  • Drive shafts
  • Chassis
  • Car suspension
  • Steering
  • Tires and wheels
  • Brake system
  • Body
  • Exterior (external elements)
  • Interior (internal elements)
  • Doors and windows
  • Heating and ventilation
  • Electrical equipment
  • Equipment and devices
  • Power devices
  • Lighting and signaling
  • Electrical circuits
W124 (1984-1995) 
  • General information
  • Governing bodies
  • Driving and operation
  • Weekly care
  • Maintenance (gasoline)
  • Maintenance (diesel)
  • Troubleshooting
  • Power unit
  • I4 petrol engine
  • V6 petrol engine (SOHC)
  • V6 petrol engine (DOHC)
  • Diesel engines
  • Engine overhaul
  • Cooling system
  • Heating and ventilation
  • Fuel system (carburetor)
  • Injection system «Bosch CIS-E»
  • Injection system «Bosch HFM»
  • Diesel fuel system
  • Supply system
  • Starting and charging system
  • Ignition system (I4)
  • Ignition system (V6)
  • Preheating
  • Transmission
  • Clutch
  • Mechanical gearbox
  • Automatic gearbox
  • Drive shafts
  • Chassis
  • Brake system
  • Car suspension
  • Steering
  • Body
  • Exterior (external elements)
  • Interior (internal elements)
  • Doors, locks and windows
  • Electrical equipment
  • Equipment and devices
  • Switches
  • Headlights and lighting
  • Electrical circuits
W123 (1976-1985) 
  • General information
  • Introduction to the guide
  • Power unit
  • Engine device
  • Repair M102 engines
  • Repair M110 and M123 engines
  • Cooling and lubrication (M102)
  • Cooling (M110 and M123)
  • Ignition system
  • Power system «Stromberg»
  • Power system «Solex 4A1»
  • Fuel injection «K-Jetronic»
  • Fuel injection «L-Jetronic»
  • Transmission
  • Clutch
  • Mechanical gearbox
  • Automatic gearbox
  • Cardan and rear axle
  • Chassis
  • Front suspension
  • Rear suspension
  • Steering
  • Brake system
  • Body
  • Exterior (external elements)
  • Interior (internal elements)
  • Doors, locks and windows
  • Electrical equipment
  • Equipment and devices
  • Power devices
  • Electrical circuits
 
MercedesMan.ru © 2017–2026 · Mobile version · Read about Mercedes · Sitemap: EN BG BY UA RS HR RO PL SK HU · Feedback · Site search · Bookmark A-Class (W168) · C-Class (W201) · C-Class (W202) · C-Class (W203) · E-Class (W123) · E-Class (W124) · E-Class (W210) · G-Class (W463) · M-Class (W163) · S-Class (W116, petrol) · S-Class (W126, petrol) · S-Class (W140) · S-Class (W220) · Sprinter · Vito 1 · Vito 2 · Vario 814D ·
 
We only use cookies without which some of the site's features may not be available.