Checking the front suspension and steering
1. Raise the front of the vehicle and place it securely on stands.
2. Inspect ball joint protectors (see fig. 12.2). Any wear on the covers, cracks, fraying or destruction leads to loss of lubrication, ingress of dirt and water, which leads to the rapid destruction of ball joints. Also check that the steering gear mounting bolts are tightened to the required torque (see chapter 10).
Pic. 12.2. Inspect ball joint dust covers
3. On vehicles with power steering, check the condition of the hoses and tubes of the system, as well as the hose connections. Watch for fluid leaks. Check for fluid leaks from the pressurized steering gear. Leakage may indicate a violation of the seals inside the steering mechanism.
4. Grab the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and try to rock it (see fig. 12.4). A slight play may be felt, but if movement is felt, the cause of the play should be determined. Continue rocking the wheel while having an assistant depress the brake pedal. If after that the backlash has stopped or significantly decreased, the hub bearings are probably worn out. If play is still felt when the brake pedal is depressed, then the suspension joints or bearings are worn out. Remember that front hub bearings are adjustable (see chapter 10).
Pic. 12.4. Grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and try to rock it
5. Grab the wheel at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and try to rock the wheel as before. Any perceptible movement can again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or tie rod ball joints. If the inner or outer pivot is worn, there will be obvious movement.
6. Using a large screwdriver or a flat metal rod, check the wear of the suspension mount bushings by placing the arm between the appropriate suspension part and the attachment point. Little movement can be expected as the bushings are made of rubber. However, significant play means wear on the bushings. Also check the condition of the visible parts of the rubber bushings, paying attention to cracks, tears or contamination of the rubber.
7. With the vehicle on wheels, have an assistant turn the steering wheel from side to side one-eighth of a turn each time. There should be a slight delay between steering and front wheel turns. If this is not the case, carefully check the linkage of the arms and supports as described earlier, but additionally check the wear of the steering column cardan joint and the steering mechanism itself.
Shock Absorber / Suspension Strut Check
8. Check for leaks around the shock body / strut or from under the rubber boot around the piston rod. If leaks are found, the suspension damper is defective and should be replaced.
Note: Suspension dampers should be changed in pairs on the same axle.
9. The effectiveness of the suspension shock absorber can be tested by rocking the car around every corner (see fig. 12.9). The body should return to its original state and stop after it is released. If it goes up and down, the suspension strut/shock absorber is probably bad. Also check the wear on the upper and lower shock absorber mounts.
Pic. 12.9. The effectiveness of the suspension dampers can be checked by rocking the car for each corner separately