Sometimes the insulation can be restored by keeping the anchor in a can of motor oil. A much greater effect is achieved by slightly warmed drying oil, if the anchor is kept in it in several stages, taking daily breaks for drying.
The same problem - a breakdown of the winding - befalls the electric motor of the windshield washer. This often happens due to the carelessness of the car owner, when either the water tank is empty, or the liquid is frozen, or the spray nozzles or the pump filter are "dead" clogged, and there is a "bug" in the fuse box in the electric motor circuit.
In general, it is better not to joke with fuses. This will allow you to avoid not only a short circuit, which sometimes ends in a fire, but also to more easily detect faults.
For a novice motorist, there should be a golden rule: the search for the causes of electrical equipment malfunctions should begin with the fuse box.
I remember when I bought my first car, I noticed in the store that the battery charge indicator light was on. Then I assumed that either the generator brushes had not yet been ground in, or the voltage regulator was "fooling" (at that time, cars were equipped with mechanical relay-regulators of Bulgarian manufacture. Sometimes they would trigger "overcharging", and the light would come on). Replacing the relay-regulator did not give any results: the generator simply did not generate energy. Replacing the brush assembly also turned out to be useless.
I had to remove the generator, having first drained the cooling liquid from the system and dismantled the thermostat. Checking the generator windings and the diode "bridge" showed that everything was in order. Only later, having done all this unnecessary work on a completely new car, did I guess to look in the fuse box. Of course. there was simply no corresponding fuse in the excitation circuit of the generator winding.
So if your generator fails, start checking with the fuse. Even if it is intact, do not be lazy to clean its contact areas. Only after that, take the generator itself.
However, do not rush to disassemble and dismantle it. First, check the brush assembly. Large chips on the brushes, significant wear or oiling can already cause the generator to fail.
Pay attention to the condition of the anchor contact rings, which are visible in the window into which the brush assembly is inserted. Scratches and grooves are removed with sandpaper, then polished. If these operations do not produce results, you will need to take the rectifier unit, having previously disconnected the wires from the battery and generator. The unit is checked using a test lamp. The negative pole of the battery is brought out to the generator body, the positive - through the bulb - to terminal "30".
If the light comes on, it means that the rectifier block is broken and needs to be replaced. It happens, however, that either the positive or negative valves of the block are broken. But it is probably better not to go into these subtleties, especially since separate replacement of valves is not practiced.
Finally, about the starter. This is probably one of the most durable units of the car, although it "works" in the most difficult conditions. Even when the engine is overhauled, sometimes only the brushes are changed in the starter and the contact rings are cleaned.
The weakest point of the starter is the overrunning clutch, or "bendix": sometimes the thrust rollers fly apart or get stuck. And then when starting the engine, only a buzzing sound is heard: the starter rotates, but does not turn the engine flywheel. Sometimes washing the "bendix" in kerosene or acetone helps. But craftsmen, as a rule, flare the cage with rollers and either change all the parts of the cage, or wash them thoroughly.
Another common malfunction is not so much related to the starter itself, but to oxidation or breakage of the tips of the special braided bus that connects the engine to the body, that is, the "ground" (the tire is located under the engine). In this case, the starter makes characteristic clicks or is completely "silent", unless, of course, the "silence" is caused by another reason - disconnection of the positive wire of the starter relay. One way or another, a check is needed. If the relay wire is in place, take hold of the bus. But if the wire has nevertheless popped out, do not try to insert it without removing the starter - you will waste your time. The starter will have to be dismantled.