Low maintenance battery
1. If the annual mileage of the car is low, the density of the electrolyte should be measured every three months to check the battery charge.
2. If the condition of the battery is of concern, check the density of the electrolyte in each cell. A difference of more than 0.040 indicates a loss of electrolyte or damage to the plates.
3. If the density difference exceeds 0.040, the battery must be replaced. If the difference in density is satisfactory, but the battery is discharged, it must be charged and the density of the electrolyte checked. Charging sequence is shown below.
Maintenance free battery
1. If a sealed battery is installed on the vehicle, it is impossible to check the density of the electrolyte and restore its level. Battery status can be checked using the built-in indicator or an external voltmeter.
2. Some models are equipped with maintenance-free batteries with a built-in charge indicator. It is located on top and changes its color when the battery state of charge changes. If the indicator is green, the battery is fully charged, if the indicator is red, the battery needs to be charged. The sequence of actions when charging the battery is given below in this Section. Batteries from other manufacturers may also have a built-in charge indicator. In this case, follow the instructions given in the operating instructions for the battery.
Batteries of all types
1. When checking the battery with a voltmeter, connect it to the terminals and compare the result with the data given in the Specifications. The measurement result will be correct if the battery has not been charged for at least the last 6 hours. If it was charging, turn on the headlights for 30 seconds, then wait 5 minutes and check the voltage at the terminals. All other electrical equipment (including interior lighting) it should be included.
2. If the measurement result is less than 12.0 V, then the battery is discharged, and the voltage from 12.0 to 12.4 indicates partial discharge.
3. If the battery needs to be charged, remove it from the car (refer to section Checking the condition, adjusting and replacing the wiper blades) and charge following the procedure below.
Checking the fastening of the battery terminals and holder
Note. If the battery is loose or the terminals are loose, the result may be premature battery failure due to vibration, cable fire, or electrical malfunction. Since the data of electronic memory units, such as a radio receiver, are erased when the battery is not connected, read the notes on removing and installing the battery, while referring to Section Checking the condition, adjusting and replacing the wiper blades.
1. Move the battery terminals in different directions and check the reliability of their fastening, tighten if necessary.
2. If the battery is loose, tighten the fastening bolt to 20Nm.
Battery test under load
1. Attach a voltmeter to the battery terminals.
2. Start the engine and check the voltage.
3. At the time of starting the engine with a fully charged battery, the voltage should not fall below 10 V (at an electrolyte temperature of about +20°C).
4. If the voltage drops sharply and the density of the electrolyte in different sections is different, the battery is damaged and needs to be replaced.
Charger
The steps below may differ from those recommended by the manufacturer of the battery installed in the vehicle. In this case, follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
Conventional and low maintenance battery
1. Charge the battery with a current equal to 10% of the capacity (for example, if the battery capacity is 45 Ah, it should be charged with a current of 4.5 Amperes) until the density of the electrolyte in the jars increases within 4 hours.
2. On the other hand, an automatic charger with a current of about 1.5 amps can be left on all night.
3. Chargers «accelerated» types that supposedly can fully charge the battery in a couple of hours are not recommended, because at high currents the battery plates can overheat and collapse.
4. When charging the battery, make sure that the temperature of the electrolyte does not exceed 37.8°C.
Charging a maintenance-free battery
1. This type of battery will take longer to fully charge than a low-maintenance or conventional battery. The charging time depends on the degree of discharge and can take up to three days.
2. The voltage generated by the charger should be in the range of 13.9 - 14.9 volts, the current should not exceed 25 amperes. Under these conditions, the battery can be used after 3 hours, the voltage at the terminals should be about 12.5 volts. It will take longer to reach full charge.
Security Notes:
Before charging the battery, read the safety notes in Section Checking the condition, adjusting and replacing the wiper blades:
- Do not disconnect the battery while the engine is running.
- Never short-circuit a battery, i.e. do not connect positive (+) and negative poles (-). The battery will get hot and may crack.
- Do not use open flame near the battery. The electrolyte is toxic. Avoid contact with eyes, skin and clothing. Otherwise, flush the electrolyte with plenty of water.
- For a battery with a central gas outlet, when charging, plugs (cross slot) do not turn out.
- Allow a frozen battery to defrost before charging. A charged battery freezes at about 65°C, a semi-charged battery at about 30°C and a discharged battery at about 12°C. After defrosting, check the battery for cracks. Replace if necessary.
- When charging the battery with a normal charger or fast charger, remove the battery. At a minimum, disconnect the negative (-) and positive cable (+).
- When using a portable charger (small current) charging can be done without removing the battery. The cable to the on-board network does not need to be disconnected. It is necessary, of course, to take into account the data of the battery manufacturer.
Charging a severely discharged and sulphated battery
Battery that has not been used for a long time (for example, when the car is parked for a long time), discharges and sulfates over time.
If the open circuit voltage of the battery is below 11.6 V, then the battery is considered to be heavily discharged. Check the quiescent voltage, while referring to subsection "Battery check".
In a heavily discharged battery, the electrolyte consists of almost nothing but water.
Note. At a negative temperature, such a battery may freeze, and the battery case may crack.
A severely discharged battery is sulphated, i.e. large poorly soluble crystals of lead sulfide are formed on the surface of the electrodes. The electrolyte loses its transparency and acquires a faint white color.
If a heavily discharged battery is charged immediately after being discharged, sulfation will reoccur. Otherwise, the battery plates continue to harden, and the ability to charge the battery for a long time remains limited.
A heavily discharged and sulfated battery should be charged with a reduced current of about 5%, i.e. with, for example, a battery capacity of 60 Ah, the charging current should be 3 A.
The charge voltage should be no more than 14.4 V.
Note. Never charge a heavily discharged battery with a quick charger.
Quick Charge/Startup Assistance
Use a quick charger to charge the battery solely to start the vehicle. In this case, the charging current is 20% or more of the battery capacity. In this case, the battery is damaged, because it is exposed to high currents. A battery that has not been used for a long time and is heavily discharged should not be charged with a quick charger, as it will this leads to sulfation.